Trattoria Ruggero

Just beyond Florence’s ancient Porta Romana, roughly a twenty-minute stroll from the iconic Ponte Vecchio, sits Trattoria Ruggero—a beloved neighborhood institution that has been serving authentic Tuscan fare for more than four decades. This is the kind of place where the clinking of wine glasses and animated conversations create a symphony of Italian life, where locals gather to reconnect and visitors stumble upon something genuinely special.

The handwritten menus here are part of the charm, even if they require a bit of deciphering. Start your meal with the earthy Tuscan liver pate, a nod to Florentine culinary tradition, before moving on to the carrattiera—a spicy tomato pasta that delivers bold, satisfying flavors. The arista is another standout: a generous portion of slow-roasted pork loin accompanied by whatever vegetables the season brings. For something truly rooted in history, order the ribollita, a centuries-old soup built from cabbage, white beans, stale bread, and vegetables that somehow tastes far more elegant than its humble ingredients suggest.

Sunday lunch here is a particularly magical experience. The dining room fills with Oltrarno locals catching up after their week, slurping broth from steaming bowls of tortellini in brodo without a hint of pretension. This is dining as it should be: communal, joyful, and deeply connected to place and tradition.

Make sure to call ahead for reservations—phone bookings are essential at this local favorite. While it may take a bit of effort to reach, Trattoria Ruggero rewards those willing to venture outside the tourist center with an experience that feels authentically Florentine in every way.