Ètra

There’s a mystique surrounding Ètra that’s hard to shake. This intimate Italian restaurant tucked into Melrose Hill operates with the kind of quiet confidence usually reserved for places that don’t need to advertise. The space feels like stumbling into a hidden vermouth bar somewhere in Eastern Europe—white tile floors, plywood walls, and emerald light from exit signs casting cinematic shadows across the dining room. Everyone here looks impossibly stylish, bathed in that flattering low light.

But here’s the thing: beneath all that moody sophistication lies a genuinely welcoming neighborhood spot. The staff is warm and eager to accommodate, especially if you take them up on their generous walk-in policy. Arrive between 5pm and 7pm without a reservation, and you’ll likely snag a table. If there’s a brief wait, the bartenders will pour you something interesting while you settle in. Speaking of the bar, grabbing a seat there opens up the whole menu and some surprisingly good conversation with fellow diners.

The food at Ètra rewards strategic ordering. Start with the carne cruda—a luxurious steak tartare crowned with tonnato sauce, bay leaf oil, and crispy fried garlic—then move to the chicories caesar, one of the city’s finest salads with its creamy anchovy dressing and soft egg yolk blanket. Skip the pasta section (it’s serviceable but unremarkable) and head straight for the proteins. The New York strip is the real star here, a beautifully simple preparation with just salt, pepper, and grilled cabbage that rivals dedicated steakhouses across LA.

Whether you’re on a first date looking for somewhere atmospheric or simply want an excellent meal without pretense, Ètra delivers. It may have the aesthetic of a place that wants to be exclusive, but the heart of a neighborhood restaurant that’s just happy you showed up.