Sushi By Scratch

Hidden inside an Encino shopping mall, Sushi By Scratch transforms dinner into a full production. The evening kicks off in a moody cocktail lounge before guests are led down a dim corridor to an unmarked door. A dramatic knock later, the wooden entrance swings open to reveal chefs wielding blowtorches behind a sleek sushi bar. It’s mysterious, a bit campy, and genuinely builds excitement for what’s to come.

The menu offers a single path: an 18-course nigiri omakase at $185 per person. Some pieces genuinely shine—the scallop nigiri keeps things elegant with poblano kosho adding just the right kick, and the blowtorched bone marrow is an indulgent guilty pleasure that melts across the rice like warm butter. These moments hint at what the experience could be when restraint wins out.

Unfortunately, many courses lean too heavily on unconventional toppings and sauces. Toro swimming in brown butter with pineapple, or hamachi buried under sweet corn pudding and torched bread crumbs—these choices can obscure rather than enhance the fish. With locations across the country, there’s an inevitable chain-restaurant feel: pre-written course descriptions on painted signs, rehearsed chef commentary that repeats verbatim on return visits.

For groups celebrating a birthday or special occasion who want atmosphere over authenticity, Sushi By Scratch delivers an entertaining night out. But purists seeking pristine fish and traditional technique will find better options along Ventura Boulevard—no doorbell required.