Per Se

Perched high above Columbus Circle in the Time Warner Center, Per Se occupies the kind of real estate that demands attention. This is Thomas Keller’s East Coast sibling to The French Laundry, a restaurant that has held court as one of New York’s most prestigious dining destinations for two decades. The room is hushed and carpeted, the tables well-spaced, and the views sweep across Central Park’s southern edge.

The kitchen delivers a nine-course tasting menu built on classical French technique applied to American ingredients. The signature Oysters and Pearls remains a highlight—a bowl of creamy sabayon dotted with tapioca and crowned with caviar that plays between salty, silky, and substantial. Fish courses arrive with crispy skin and carefully composed garnishes, while proteins like Elysian Fields lamb showcase the kitchen’s commitment to premium sourcing.

This is very much old-school fine dining, complete with whispered sauce descriptions and synchronized service. The experience leans formal rather than intimate, with a polished efficiency that some may find impressive and others somewhat impersonal. At $425 before wine, you’re paying for precision, pedigree, and that Columbus Circle view rather than the boundary-pushing creativity found at newer establishments.

Per Se remains best suited for milestone celebrations where the setting and formality are part of the appeal. Those seeking the cutting edge of New York dining may find the menu plays it safe, but for a certain type of special occasion—a major anniversary, a landmark birthday—the restaurant still delivers a carefully orchestrated evening of refined American cuisine.