Lai Rai

Tucked into a narrow whitewashed space on Forsyth Street where Chinatown meets the Lower East Side, Lai Rai is the kind of place that feels like a well-kept secret. A collaboration between nearby Mắm and Greenpoint’s Đi Ăn Đi, this cozy wine bar draws inspiration from Paris’s beloved Folderol—where natural wine meets housemade ice cream—but has carved out its own distinctly low-key identity in the neighborhood.

The centerpiece is a beautiful swirling marble bar that invites lingering conversation over glasses of chilled aligoté or other approachable natural wines. The one-page wine list leans French and Italian with bottles starting around $60, though you might spot something unexpected like a sherry-style Vietnamese rice wine. Pair your pour with fresh oysters or one of the excellent Vietnamese snacks—the giò thủ (Vietnamese head cheese) is a must-order when available, its peppercorn-studded richness delivering wave after wave of umami.

But honestly, the ice cream alone is worth the visit. The housemade scoops arrive in adorable metal coupes, with flavors that rotate seasonally but reliably include creamy avocado and Vietnamese coffee. The ambarella sorbet is a revelation—bright and perfumed with citrus and grass notes that reveal themselves gradually. Don’t skip the toasty banana leaf ice cream either, and if you want to try everything, ask nicely and they might hook you up with a flight of half portions.

Lai Rai is perfect for those evenings when you want great wine without pretense, interesting snacks without a full dinner commitment, and dessert that goes far beyond an afterthought. Expect the volume to rise as the night goes on and maybe a few fellow revelers spilling out onto the sidewalk—that’s just the sign of a good time.