Dunsmoor

Walking into Dunsmoor feels like stepping into a different era of cooking, one where fire is the only tool that matters. This cavernous Art Deco space in Glassell Park glows with an amber warmth that radiates from the open hearth at its center. Cast iron pots and bundles of drying herbs surround the flames, creating an atmosphere that manages to feel both primal and refined. The kitchen’s commitment to wood-fire cooking isn’t just for show—it fundamentally transforms everything that comes off the grill.

The menu here leans Southern but doesn’t limit itself. Start with the raw preparations: the seared albacore with ginger relish and crispy shallots is unexpectedly stellar from a fire-focused kitchen, and the chopped chicken liver with caramelized onions deserves its cult following. The hatch chile and cheddar cornbread has achieved legendary status for good reason—it’s pillowy, slightly sweet from honey, and impossibly satisfying. For mains, the massive dry-aged ribeye delivers serious beef flavor with a subtle smokiness, while the stuffed rainbow trout showcases impressive technical skill over open flame.

Fair warning: this kitchen has a heavy hand with brown butter and salt. The food is rich, indulgent, and best approached strategically. Consider splitting an entree between two and loading up on the lighter raw dishes and pickled vegetables to start. The walk-in-only wine bar in the back offers a shortened menu perfect for a more casual visit—just snag a seat, order the steak frites with those incredible duck fat fries, and call it a perfect evening.

Dunsmoor has carved out a unique space in LA’s dining scene. It’s the kind of neighborhood spot with reasonable prices for what you’re getting, yet special enough for milestone dinners. Whether you’re settling in for the full fire-kissed experience or just stopping by the bar for cornbread and wine, this is a campfire worth gathering around again and again.