Checchino Dal 1887

In the heart of Testaccio, one of Rome’s most authentically local neighborhoods, Checchino Dal 1887 has been serving traditional Roman cuisine for well over a century. This family-run institution sits above ancient wine caves carved into Monte Testaccio itself, giving diners access to an extraordinary collection of wines that perfectly complement the robust flavors the kitchen produces.

The restaurant has built its reputation on the so-called “quinto quarto”—the fifth quarter, or offal—that working-class Romans transformed into some of the city’s most beloved dishes. The pajata here is legendary, featuring veal intestines still containing mother’s milk, slow-cooked for hours until the meat achieves a remarkably creamy, ricotta-like texture. When you cut into it, the filling releases a rich, gamey flavor that melds seamlessly with the tomato and pecorino sauce coating the mezze maniche pasta. For the adventurous, the grilled version arrives with just a squeeze of lemon, letting the quality of the preparation speak for itself.

The dining experience at Checchino embodies everything you’d want from a Roman trattoria with serious pedigree. Whether you’re seated in the warm, traditional interior or enjoying the outdoor terrace on a pleasant evening, the atmosphere feels genuinely old-world without being stuffy. The wine list, drawn from those historic cellars below, offers remarkable depth for those who want to pair their meal with something special.

This is the kind of place where you come to understand why Roman cuisine has endured for centuries. Checchino isn’t trying to reinvent anything—they’re simply perfecting traditions that have been passed down through generations. Come hungry, come curious, and prepare to eat parts of the animal you might never have considered before.