Backbone

Tucked away in the charming Montrose neighborhood, Backbone feels like discovering a hidden gem in a storybook mountain town. The husband-and-wife chef team behind McCall’s Meat & Fish has created an elegant yet approachable space where exposed rafters, an open kitchen, and plush blue banquettes set the stage for memorable meals. Whether you’re bringing discerning parents or impressing a wine-savvy date, this spot delivers sophistication without pretense.

The menu showcases thoughtful American cooking with creative flourishes that never overshadow quality ingredients. Start with the unexpectedly delightful uni waffle, where briny sea urchin meets yuzu cream and nori honey butter. The steak tartare stands out as a must-order, featuring a subtle espelette pepper kick and an ingenious buñuelo chip for scooping. All pasta is made fresh in-house, and dishes like the butternut squash agnolotti demonstrate real craft and care.

Backbone attracts a mix of neighborhood regulars and visitors who appreciate refined dining without the fuss. Solo diners and couples gravitate toward the black marble bar, while the dining room fills with groups sharing plates of tender, pull-apart lamb shoulder. The warm energy makes it equally suited for casual catch-ups or celebrations.

This isn’t a destination restaurant demanding a trek across the city, and that’s precisely its charm. Backbone represents what every neighborhood deserves: a reliable, welcoming spot where the food consistently delivers and the atmosphere feels just right. For those lucky enough to live nearby, it’s the kind of place that becomes a regular haunt.