Antico Nuovo

Tucked away on Beverly Boulevard in Koreatown, Antico Nuovo is the kind of restaurant you could pass a hundred times without noticing. There are no flashy signs or celebrity chef endorsements—just a warm, inviting space filled with small olive trees, wooden communal tables, and copper pots hanging on the walls. It’s a refined dining experience masquerading as a neighborhood spot, embodying what some might call quiet luxury.

The pasta here is nothing short of extraordinary. The cannelloni stuffed with spinach and gooey cheese, then baked in marinara, could convert anyone into an Italian food devotee. The tiny agnolotti swimming in butter, sage, and pan drippings demand that you order extra focaccia just to soak up every last drop. Speaking of focaccia, Antico’s version rises four inches tall with an impossibly airy center and shatteringly crisp exterior—it’s the kind of bread that makes other bread jealous.

Beyond the pasta, the pork ribs dusted with fennel pollen deserve their own standing ovation. The roast chicken, typically a red flag at upscale Italian restaurants, is here a badge of excellent taste. And don’t even think about leaving without the house-made ice cream—whether you go for honeycomb, pistachio, or whatever seasonal flavor they’re spinning, it’s the perfect finale.

Antico Nuovo operates on a simple philosophy: exceptional cooking needs no fanfare. The service is warm without being fussy, the wine is explained like you’re hanging out at a friend’s place, and by the end of your meal, you’ll understand why this place stays busy despite flying under the radar. At around $125 per person, it’s an investment—but for cooking this polished and an atmosphere this genuinely pleasant, it’s money well spent on a special evening.