Alla Vecchia Bettola
A lively neighborhood trattoria in Oltrarno that feels like stepping into a Florentine celebration, complete with communal tables and classic Tuscan dishes.

Tucked away in Florence’s artsy Oltrarno neighborhood, Alla Vecchia Bettola is the kind of trattoria that makes you want to book a one-way ticket to Italy. This isn’t a polished tourist trap in the historic center—it’s a genuine neighborhood gathering spot where the energy is infectious and the wine flows freely. Step inside and you’ll find yourself surrounded by locals greeting each other like long-lost family members, communal tables draped in checkered cloths, and straw-wrapped bottles of Chianti waiting to be uncorked.
The star of the show here is undoubtedly their namesake pasta—penne slicked in a silky vodka tomato cream sauce that packs just enough heat to keep things interesting. Each bite is perfectly al dente, coated in that luscious, blush-colored sauce that haunts your dreams long after you’ve returned home. If you’re feeling adventurous, the bistecca alla fiorentina is everything Florence’s signature dish should be: gloriously rare, seasoned simply with salt and pepper, sporting a gorgeous crust, and so incredibly tender you could cut it with a butter knife.
The dining experience at Alla Vecchia Bettola is gloriously chaotic in the best possible way. You’ll share long tables with a mix of neighborhood regulars catching up after summer holidays, groups of friends who’ve been coming here for decades, and yes, fellow travelers who’ve discovered this gem. It’s the kind of place where strangers become dinner companions and an hour-long meal somehow stretches into three.
If you’re looking for an authentic taste of Florentine dining culture away from the crowds surrounding the Duomo, make the trek to Oltrarno for this one. Come hungry, come ready to linger, and come prepared to fall a little bit in love with Italy all over again.
Alla Vecchia Bettola
Italian • $$
Location
Viale Vasco Pratolini 3Oltrarno
Florence, Italy
Links
Perfect For
Must Try
- Penne alla VodkaAl dente penne bathed in a creamy tomato vodka sauce with a pleasant spicy kick
- Bistecca alla FiorentinaFlorence's signature steak, served rare with salt, pepper, and a beautiful crust