ABSteak By Chef Akira Back

Walking into ABSteak feels like stepping onto a Vegas casino floor. Part of Chef Akira Back’s global restaurant empire, this Union Square outpost goes all-in on dramatic design: think black marble staircases, sleek leather seating, and an impressive floor-to-ceiling wine display, all set to a thumping K-pop soundtrack. It’s undeniably photogenic and perfect for those seeking dinner as performance art.

The concept centers on premium Korean barbecue with a twist—every staff member undergoes extensive training to grill your cuts tableside. While the intention is elevated service, the execution can feel stilted. Expect your server to hover nearby, flipping beef while attempting conversation, creating moments that can veer from attentive to awkward. The star proteins include whiskey-aged ribeye and Australian picanha, both impeccably sourced and beautifully marbled. The signature AB Wagyu Pizza, raw beef draped over a thin tortilla with truffle oil and ponzu, has earned fame but delivers mixed results.

This is a restaurant built for expense accounts and special occasions where atmosphere matters more than substance. If you’re seeking authentic, soul-warming Korean barbecue, the city offers better options at friendlier prices. But for impressing clients or celebrating in dramatic surroundings, ABSteak delivers the spectacle. The cold noodle dish, Pyong Yang Naeng Myun, stands out as a genuinely satisfying order—its tangy, refreshing qualities balance the richness of the grilled meats well.

Bottom line: ABSteak prioritizes style over substance. The meat quality is legitimate and the setting is stunning, but with steep prices and portions that don’t quite justify them, this one’s best reserved for when someone else is picking up the tab.